Mera Peak (6654m) one of the most prominent hiking peaks in Nepal is located within the Everest Region. The top offers a stunning view of five 8000m mountains: Mt. Everest, Cho Oyo, Lhotse, Makalu, and Kanchenjunga. If the weather is favorable, several other stunning mountains and peaks can also be viewed from the top.
The route from the north is suitable also for mountain climbers with limited experience. However, it entails traversing a glacier at high altitude. The western climb in addition to the south face is harder and suitable for seasoned climbers. Over the years due to climate change, the situation on the summit block has become more difficult. However, the normal route is still reasonably easy requiring only limited mountaineering skill. The major concern is the appropriate acclimatization to the altitude, so take your time to acclimatize. Though Mera Peak is among the highest trekking mountains in Nepal, it is also well suited for a climber checking out the Himalayas for the first time given an adequate degree of physical conditioning. Keen thrill seeking mountaineers with some experience using ice- axe and crampons are well suited for this journey
There are some facts about the Mera Peak that many first-timers might not know. This is partially the fault of some of the trekking companies in Nepal offering it as a trip, whose itinerary can sometimes be vague. In this article, I would like to correctly answer some of the questions
1. Is it a trek or a climb?
Actually, it’s a climb, but don’t let this put you off even if you are not a climber. It’s an excellent mountain for trekkers who would like to get into mountaineering. The majority of the climb involves a walk up a glacier calling for basic ice axe and crampon skills. There is plenty of chance to acquire proficiency in these at the Mera Glacier bottom. Although the mountain has a hiking summit of 6431m which needs nothing more than this, Mera Central, the summit most people climb up, usually entails a 30m ascent of a 60 ° snow dome utilizing jumar and fixed rope, based on snow conditions.
2. What’s a good mountain to attempt prior to attempting Mera Peak?
Any individual who has scaled Kilimanjaro (5895m), Africa’s highest peak, can consider themselves in a great setting to have a go at Mera Peak. They will have experience of high altitude and camping condition. Other excellent preparation would be a one week course of alpine mountaineering skills, but as I’ve mentioned above the essential technical skills can quickly be obtained on Mera itself.
3. What’s the best way to trek to Mera Peak Climbing?
Several trekking companies in Nepal fly right into Lukla and take their clients right over the 4610m Zatr La pass to Tangnag located at the foot of Mera Peak. This is a difficult approach to start the trek. Lukla is at an altitude of 2800m only, and going straight over the pass from there is an alarmingly quick elevation gain for travelers who may never have been to a high altitude before. To compensate for this as well as give them a possibility to acclimatize, many of these tour operators take their clients up the active Everest route to Namche Bazaar instead. This is a missed out on an opportunity. South of Lukla there is an additional path to Tangnag which entails hiking up the remote and beautiful Hinku valley, travelling through rhododendron and bamboo woodland, up to verdant moorland and along high mountain routes. This gives an amazing expedition which for lot will certainly be as unforgettable as the climb itself.
4. Which is the true summit, Mera North or Mera Central?
This is probably the fact which will certainly shock you the most: nearly all tour operators do not actually take their clients to the real summit of Mera Peak. Almost all will climb up to 6461m Mera Central, however just a rock’s throw away the actual summit, 6476m Mera North, is rarely climbed. Why they do this is vague. I climbed both summits in 2009 as well as validated their corresponding heights utilizing my GPS. Mera North is, in fact, less steep than Mera Central and easier to climb, and there may exist the reason: it suggests the slopes look more probable to avalanche and consequently a far better wager for more seasoned climbers who move more quickly and are equipped with skills such as ice axe arrest. Do not anticipate to find any huge commercial tour operator offering climbs of Mera North. To do this you will certainly need to find yourself a reliable trekking company to offer you with the logistics and go on your own.
5. Can you see Everest from Mera Peak?
Certainly, in fact on a day with favorable weather condition, you will see 5 of the 6 highest peaks in the world. Cho Oyu (8201m), Everest (8848m), Lhotse (8516m), as well as Makalu (8463m) are all very nearby, and if you are lucky even Kangchenjunga (8586m) on the Indian border away to the east. Only K2 (8611m) in distant Pakistan is past your vision. It’s a really remarkable sight that you will certainly never forget.
6. Who climbed it first?
The grandfather of trekking in Nepal, British Army officer Jim Roberts and his Sherpa Sen Tenzing were the first individuals to climb Mera Central during a reconnaissance of the Hinku and Honguvalleys in 1953. The honor of being the first person to reach the true summit goes to the Frenchmen Marcel Playful, L Honills, and G Baus, who climbed Mera North in 1975.
7. How long does it take to climb Mera Peak?
Mera peak climbing typically takes about 17 days. Here is the standard itinerary for 17 days Mera Peak Climbing.
Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu
Day 02: Kathmandu Valley sightseeing and trip preparation
Day 03: Trek from Lukla to Chutanga(3050m) which take about four hours trek
Day 04: Trek to TuliKharka [3900m]
Day 05: Trek from TuliKharka to Kothe (4095m)
Day 06: Trek from Kothe to Tangnang (4,350m)
Day 07: Rest and acclimatization day at Thangnak
Day 08: Trek from Tangnang to Khare (5,045m)
Day 09: Trek and climb from Khare to Mera Base Camp (5300m)
Day 10: Trek and climb from Mera Base Camp to High camp (5,780m): 4-5hrs
Day 11: Summit Day; Mera High Camp to Summit (6,654m) and return to Khare.
Day 12: Trek from Khare to Kothe (3600m)
Day 13: Trek from Kothe to ThuliKharka
Day 14: ThuliKharka to Lukla: via Zatrwa La pass
Day 15: Flight to Kathmandu
Day 16: Free day in Kathmandu
Day 17 : Onward Departure
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